Clustered in a natural harbour of clear, azure water, nearly 150 islands, and countless coves and beaches make up the aquatic playground of the Bay of Islands.

Modern New Zealand was born here when Maori and European settlers signed the Treaty of Waitangi. But history is far from the only appeal: its picture-postcard scenery is sure to take your breath away at every turn.

To experience the warmest New Zealand hospitality, dramatic natural wonders, stunning seascapes and rich human history, this coast-to-coast tour is a ‘must do’.

We head north across Auckland's Harbour Bridge on State Highway 1 along the eastern division of the famous Twin Coast Discovery Highway – through picturesque townships and farmland – before pausing for photos and a leg stretch beside the spectacular 23m diamond cascade of the Whangarei falls.

The small town of Kawakawa has found fame through its extraordinary public toilets designed by Austrian Friedensreich Hundertwasser; so a brief 'comfort stop' here makes perfect sense. Soon after, we spy the crystal-blue waters of the Bay of Islands, where we take the short Opua to Okiato ferry ride to Russell.

Rich in historic fact and bawdy fiction, Russell is the archetypal colonial settlement. Originally known as Kororareka, it was frequented by whaling and sealing ships and became known as the 'Hellhole of the Pacific' for its lawlessness and vices: grog, gambling and women. Today's peaceful, pretty town – nestled between a sparkling bay and a stunning white-sand swimming beach – belies its infamous past.

During a brief, fascinating tour of the town you’ll discover where Catholic missionaries produced New Zealand's first printed texts, the beautiful Christ's Church still scarred by musket balls, the country's first licensed hotel and the flagstaff that was famously felled four times by Maori chief Hone Heke – even after the British had it encased in iron!

After a leisurely break for lunch or relaxing on the beach, it’s a 4-hour Discover The Bay cruise in a high-speed catamaran amongst the bay's beautiful islands, including Motukokako and Urupukapuka, before sighting the Cape Brett lighthouse. Conditions permitting, we’ll also pass through the dramatic Hole in the Rock. Dolphins are sighted on most cruises and often frolic alongside the boat. So pack your swimming gear, because subject to the skipper’s approval, at additional cost, you may even have the opportunity to swim with these incredible animals.

Later, you’ll leave the catamaran in Paihia, where your guide will point out the town’s many bars, cafes and restaurants before checking you in to your beachside hotel for the night.

Following a leisurely breakfast we begin day two with a visit to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.

Modern New Zealand was born here in 1840, at the signing of a treaty between Maori and the British Crown. Today this is New Zealand's pre-eminent historical site, of picturesque formal gardens, an intricately carved Maori meetinghouse, one of the world's largest Maori war canoes and the original Treaty House. You’ll join a local Maori guide as they reveal unique insights into this special, sacred place. Afterwards, you’re free to explore further or simply relax in the beautiful grounds.

From Waitangi we head west through rolling farmland to Opononi and the beautiful, natural Hokianga Harbour. We stop beside the memorial to ‘Opo the friendly dolphin’ to pick up lunch (we highly recommend the fish & chips). This is eaten al fresco; on the beach or in the shade of a pohutukawa tree whilst contemplating the awe-inspiring views of the Tasman Ocean and the 300m high sand dunes.

From Opononi we ascend to the Waipoua Forest. Mature Kauri forests once covered a million hectares of New Zealand’s north, but today just 7,500 hectares remain. Just minutes from the road is the Kauri ‘Tane Mahuta’, the imposing Lord of the Forest. In Maori folklore, Tane – the son of Ranginui, the sky father, and Papatuanuku, the earth mother – tore apart his parent’s embrace, letting light in to the world and then cloaking his mother in forest. All forest creatures are regarded as Tane’s children, and visits here are often described as mystical or spiritual.

The winding road descends from Waipoua to the plains around Dargaville. If the weather is kind, we stop to stretch our legs or swim at the stunning Kai Iwi lakes; if not, we find a more sheltered spot. Later, we skirt the northern limits of the beautiful Kaipara, the third massive harbour to once service Auckland. And at the foot of the Brynderwyn Hills we close the loop as we rejoin SH1 and travel south for Auckland where we say Haere Ra - until next time.