As the name suggests, this is a bay, filled with islands. But what islands! And what a bay! The 150 islands are clustered in a natural harbour of clear azure water, named upon discovery by Capt. James Cook. Modern New Zealand was born here, but history is far from the area's only appeal: its picture-postcard scenery is sure to take your breath away at every turn.

If you're keen to experience the warmest New Zealand hospitality, dramatic natural wonders and rich human history, this tour is perfect for you.

We head due north over Auckland's harbour bridge and follow State Highway 1, through picturesque townships and swaths of farmland. Beside the photogenic, diamond cascade of the Whangarei Falls, we pause for a leg stretch in a grove of young native bush.

In Kawakawa are the extraordinary toilets (yes, toilets!) created by Austrian Friedensreich Hundertwasser (this stop is Number 95 in AA's list of 101 must do's for Kiwis!) A brief 'comfort stop' here makes perfect sense, before we head towards the seaside resort town of Paihia, and spy the crystal-blue waters of the Bay of Islands.

In Paihia you choose your itinerary: a visit to the historic Waitangi Treaty Grounds or a cruise to Cape Brett and the famous Hole In The Rock.

Option 1 - Waitangi Treaty Grounds: In 1840 modern New Zealand was born here at the signing of a treaty between Maori and the British Crown. Today this is New Zealand's pre-eminent historical site, featuring picturesque gardens, an intricately carved Maori meetinghouse, one of the world's largest Maori war canoes and the original Treaty House. A local Maori guide will give a 60-minute guided walk showing you a unique insight in to this special, spiritual place. Afterwards, explore further or simply relax in the beautiful grounds.

Option 2 - Cape Brett Cruise: This four-hour cruise weaves among the bay's islands, including the stunning Motukokako and Urupukapuka, before sighting the Cape Brett Lighthouse. Conditions permitting, your boat will also pass through the dramatic Hole in the Rock. Finally you will enter the imposing Grand Cathedral Cave before heading back into the protecting waters of the Bay.

After regrouping for a short drive, we arrive in the beautiful Northland town of Kerikeri, where you will be taken to your accommodation and checked-in. Kerikeri enjoys a sub-tropical climate, is rich with history and known for its horticulture and gourmet produce - most enticingly wine and chocolate. There's an abundance of evening dining options and your guide will happily recommend their personal favourites.

We gently begin our second day at the Kerikeri basin, visiting two of New Zealand's oldest surviving buildings; Kemp House (built 1821-22) and the Stone Store (built 1832-36). An easy 5-minute walk away is the well-preserved Kororipo Pa (fort) site, with its beautiful views over the calm inlet and Rewa's Village, a reconstructed Maori settlement.

From Kerikeri the coastal route takes us to Opua and a short chain-ferry crossing to historic Russell. Rich in historic fact and bawdy fiction, Russell is the archetypal colonial settlement. Known prior to 1840 as Kororareka it was the largest European settlement in New Zealand. Frequented by whaling and sealing ships it was known as the 'Hellhole of the Pacific' for lawlessness and vice - grog, gambling and women. Today's peaceful town belies its infamous past, as it nestles between a sparkling bay and a stunning white-sand swimming beach.

During a brief but fascinating tour of the town you will discover where Catholic missionaries produced New Zealand's first printed texts, the beautiful Christ's Church still marked by musket ball holes, the country's first licensed hotel and the flagstaff that was cut down four times by Maori chief Hone Heke - even after the British had it encased in iron!

After exploring Russell and perhaps lunching by the bay, we journey south stopping briefly at the pretty Maori settlement of Waiomio. Here in the company of a Maori guide (and their unique sense of humour), you visit the spectacular Kawiti Caves - home to spectacular stalactite formations and extravagant glow-worm displays.   Follow an easy boardwalk through the caves and emerge via a 10-minute native bush walk.

Finally we set off south for Auckland where we must say Haere Ra - until the next time.